The French formal garden of the Hôtel de Caumont
EmiRise
A NEIGHBOURHOOD OF AIX-EN-PROVENCE

THE HISTORIC CENTRE, the heart of Aix

A square born of a marquis's whim, a clock that follows the seasons, a cathedral fifteen centuries in the making: the stories hidden behind the façades of old Aix.

6 MIN READ·BY EMIRISE

North of the Cours Mirabeau, old Aix reveals itself square by square. Some have a long history, others a single anecdote, but each one is worth the detour.

Place d'Albertas and its fountain
01PLACE D'ALBERTAS

A marquis's whim

The most beautiful square in Aix was born of one man's whim: the Marquis d'Albertas, who took exception to the houses opposite his own.

1735The view bought out. One by one, he buys up the houses opposite, then has them razed.
1745A royal square in miniature. Georges Vallon designs façades in a gentle curve, set wide enough apart for carriages to turn around.
1912The students' fountain. It is cast in iron by the students of the Arts et Métiers school in Aix.
2023The secret beneath the cobbles. Restoration work reveals the cellars of the razed houses, still intact.
The Tour de l'Horloge on an old postcard
02PLACE DE L'HÔTEL-DE-VILLE

The clock of the seasons

For more than five centuries, this is where Aix has come to meet, beneath the tower that tells both the hour and the season.

1510The Tour de l'Horloge. Built on an old town gate. Since 1661, four statues of the seasons have taken turns there throughout the year.
1671The town hall. Weddings are still held here: Cézanne married Hortense Fiquet here in 1886.
MorningsThe flower market. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, the square is covered in flowers.
The Legend of Saint Mitre, painted by Nicolas Froment around 1470
03SAINT-SAUVEUR CATHEDRAL

The saint who carried his own head

On the cathedral's façade, a man holds his own head: Saint Mitre, patron saint of Aix. Beheaded in the 5th century, he is said to have carried his head to the church himself.

466The beheading. Mitre is beheaded at the age of 33.
1383The relics. His sarcophagus is moved to the cathedral.
1470The painting. Nicolas Froment paints the scene shown here.
The law courts on an old map
04PLACE DES PRÊCHEURS

Facing the palace of the counts

For centuries, the square faced the palace of the Counts of Provence, which later housed the Parlement. It was razed in 1786; the law courts that replaced it were not inaugurated until 1832.

The café terraces of place des Cardeurs
05PLACE DES CARDEURS

The youngest square in old Aix

In its present form, it has only existed since 1963. Before that, the narrow lanes of the medieval Jewish quarter, long since fallen into disrepair, were crowded together here. Today, its café terraces are the liveliest in the centre.

06OLD AIX ON SCREEN

A film set in its own right

On the set of Cézanne et moi
Cézanne et moi · 2016By Danièle Thompson, starring Guillaume Canet and Guillaume Gallienne. Shops from the 1850s were recreated on place de l'Archevêché.
Alexandra Lamy on the set of Retour chez ma mère
Retour chez ma mère · 2016By Éric Lavaine, starring Alexandra Lamy, Josiane Balasko and Mathilde Seigner.
Kev Adams and Franck Dubosc on the set of Fiston
Fiston · 2014Kev Adams and Franck Dubosc on place Richelme one market morning, and outside the law faculty.
STAYING IN OLD AIX

Our homes in the historic centre

Discover all our homes
Le Saint-Esprit
HISTORIC CENTRELE SAINT-ESPRIT85 m² · 3 bedrooms · 6 guests

On the top floor of a building in the town centre, Le Saint-Esprit is an upscale 85 m² apartment with three bedrooms and two bathrooms, designed for six guests.

Top floorView of the Saint-Esprit churchHome cinema
From €360 / nightBook
L'Augustin
HISTORIC CENTREL'AUGUSTIN78 m² · 2 bedrooms · 4 guests

In the historic heart of Aix-en-Provence, 20 metres from place des Augustins and a minute from the Cours Mirabeau, L'Augustin is a 78 m² two-bedroom apartment designed for four guests.

Place des AugustinsCours Mirabeau 1 min awayMusée Granet
From €250 / nightBook
L'Écolier
HISTORIC CENTREL'ÉCOLIERDuplex · 2 bedrooms · 4 guests

A few steps from place de l'Hôtel de Ville, in a historic building in the centre of Aix-en-Provence, L'Écolier is a light-filled two-bedroom duplex designed for four guests.

Place de l'Hôtel de VilleLight-filled duplexVery quiet
From €240 / nightBook

Frequently asked questions

When was place d'Albertas built?

It was laid out between 1742 and 1746 by the Marquis Jean-Baptiste d'Albertas, to designs by Georges Vallon. Its cast-iron fountain dates from 1912.

Who is the statue holding his own head on the cathedral?

It is Saint Mitre, patron saint of Aix, beheaded in the 5th century. According to legend, he carried his head to the church himself.

How old is the Tour de l'Horloge?

The tower dates from 1510 and its astronomical clock from 1661.

Where was Paul Cézanne born?

At 28 rue de l'Opéra, in the historic centre, on 19 January 1839. He died in 1906, having spent his final years at 23 rue Boulegon.

SEE ALL ARTICLESSee all
Aix, the city of a thousand fountainsAix, the city of a thousand fountainsHistoryA fountain that steams in winter, a marquis hanged in effigy, a copper star: what the fountains tell us about the city.The Mazarin quarter, aristocratic AixThe Mazarin quarter, aristocratic AixNeighbourhoodsStreets laid out with a ruler, mansions of honey-coloured stone and the hush of the finest addresses.The Cours Mirabeau, the soul of AixThe Cours Mirabeau, the soul of AixNeighbourhoods440 metres of plane trees, café terraces and fountains: the most famous promenade in Provence.